Deep cleaning changer without removing/rebuilding

[Arthur Baker]

This is a follow up to a topic a posted a few weeks about regarding a 4th string tuning issue.
viewtopic.php?t=413379

In short, i have performed almost everything that has been suggested. I have cut a few coils off the return spring, increased travel/ check for over tuning, checked for crossbar slack, changed the strings, lubricated the changer, lubricated the rollers, removed the raise assist springs on the 4th and 5th strings.

I was lucky enough to catch my steel teacher on a tour stop in my town. (side note if you get a chance to see Whitey Morgan and the 78's. They put on an amazing show and Johnny Up is an incredible steel player). We went through my guitar and he made some pretty major improvements to the rodding of my guitar, we increased the travel on the C pedal quite a bit, and corrected a the E and F levers (I had increased the stop so much that the levers were engaging way too late)

The issue has been improved, but still noticeable to where i hear the 4th string start to drift out of tune after a few songs.

I believe the last thing to try is deep clean the changer. I would like to avoid removing it or taking it apart.
From what I understand this is possible by running cleaner through the changer from the top of the guitar.
Wondering if anyone else has a good process for this or can recommend a good cleaning solution (lighter fluid?), something in a pressurized container like WD-40 spray can seems ideal (I know WD-40 itself is not a good idea)

Thanks!

[Andy Vance]

If you don't find the answer you are looking for as to how to deep clean the changer without removing/rebuilding and want someone to work on it, Patrick has a shop in West Seattle and can probably do what you need.

patrick@tenstringsadmachine.com

Andy

[Donny Hinson]

For the most part, cleaning in that manner will only remove some surface build-up, and it will drive as much dirt into the changer as it does wash goo out of the changer. I only recommend it if the changer feels "sticky", and oil doesn't free it up. But...I'd advise you to see just how sluggish and sticky the changer is first!

Slack off ALL the strings, and then remove or unhook ALL the return springs. Only then can you move the fingers back and forth with your fingers and actually feel how freely they move. And if they move freely, your "drifting problem is NOT due to a sticky changer.

I would more suspect you have something out of adjustment, or the guitar isn't strung properly. Normally, guitars work fine until someone tries to "adjust" or improve them.

my2cents

[Bobby D. Jones]

Sounds like there is a problem in the changer, Or the rivet in the lower/raise bars.
Do not use Carburetor or Brake Cleaner, Some of them have Caustics in them. The Caustic will eat and dull polished aluminum.

Spray can/Starting fluid is a good cleaner, That does not affect aluminum or plastic. A high pressure air nozzle helps too. Spray with cleaner let soak a few seconds, Then air blow cleaner and dirt out. Do 2 or 3 cycles. Make sure cleaner is gone, Then lube Changer shaft, fingers and rivets.
I had problem on MSA Classic, White lithium grease had turned to @$#%#^ over 50 years. Ended up pulling changers.
Good luck in this project, Happy Steelin.

[Dennis Detweiler]

I've always used fishing reel or sewing machine oil on my guitars. I bought my 1976 MSA new and the changer fingers swing free without strings and return springs. I bought a 1975 MSA used a few years ago. Fingers 11 and 12 were frozen with solidified dust and oil. I disassembled the changer, cleaned it, oiled it and it swings free now. I also replaced all of the return springs with slightly lighter gauge springs. I had to shorten them a little more than the originals, but the pedal and knee action is much softer.

[Douglas Schuch]

Removing a changer is time-consuming, but not as hard as one might think. The key is to take pictures every step of the way and come up with a system to write down which slot in the bell crank each rod goes in, and which hole in the changer, so you can put it back together fairly easily.

When you remove the full changer and clean it properly, it will play much nicer. Having said that, though, there is no harm done by trying to run some lighter fluid through the changer from above, focusing on the particular string causing the problem. I bought a used MSA once that had a problem like that right out of the case. I was too busy to deal with cleaning it, so I tried it, and it fixed the problem. 8 years later I finally pulled and deep-cleaned it. So that might work. If not, you in the same situation you are in of needing to disassemble it. You can also try brake cleaner, but BE CAREFUL as it dissolves paint and lacquer - I'd use lighter fluid instead..